AFTER Marni celebrated duality in their AW19 Milan show, 2020 has focussed on hero pieces, wearing their heart on their well-tailored, and often brightly coloured, sleeve. Outerwear incorporating clashing and often contrastingly-textured panels was on display, putting a twist on the traditional muted trench.
But Marni’s menswear collection has also nodded to the enduring relevance of monochrome in high-fashion, putting a spin on the traditional light and dark. The heart pattern faintly resembles Moschino’s Jeremy Scott, with a more playful interpretation of what can be quite a staid and tired greyscale approach. Hearts are depicted in various states and shades in this show, giving pops of light symbolic relief from the heavier coats and focus on outerwear.
What is interesting is a revisiting of the pink and red trend that has overwhelmed the female contingent on red carpets throughout this year – particularly the Emmys – with a more masculine edge. Leather trousers and oversized jumpers create more accessibility, and are infinitely more wearable than the feminine, corseted couture that we saw in 2019.
There are gorgeously frivolous elements of this collection, with a push for retro prints and tailored layering that is juxtaposed with the styling choice of long, slicked and slightly unkempt hair.
Marni brings a sense of joy to Milan, reminding us of fashion at its core: creative expression of a time, place and a feeling – and the feeling here is one of artistic freedom.