LFW AW20: Roland Mouret

LOCATED inside the modern minimalist space of The National Theatre, “values over trends” echoed coherently throughout Roland Mouret’s ‘80s-inspired AW20 collection. Showcased to the fitting soundscape of David Bowie’s Golden Years, the collection was inspired by the attitudes and values of early 1980s London. 

Defined by political and social extremes of the time, Mouret’s creative vision stemmed from the need to adapt production of clothing in order to support sustainability and social change.

The bleak reality of Thatcher’s Britain during the 1980s was captured defiantly and recurrently throughout the show. The opening look featured a silk shawl emblazoned with the compelling motive “your lies are not my dreams”, while conservative chic reverberated throughout in the forms of light chiffon-organza dresses, tailored skirt suits and boxy belted jackets. Wide-shoulder blazers further contributed to the strong illusion of ‘80s silhouettes.

Two pioneering brands were highlighted in Mouret’s AW20. Dear Frances contributed shoes and boots to introduce the sustainable processes adopted to address the damaging culture of fast fashion, while Bottletop accessories made of upcycled ring pulls completed ensembles for a complementary touch.

Muted palettes comprised of beige, brown and grey established the foundations of the collection, while the inclusion of pastel hues such as lilac and pink juxtaposed against carmine red and cobalt blue demonstrated Moulet’s purposeful play on differing concepts of femininity.

Encapsulating longevity and timelessness with the infusing of an androgynous edge, Moulet’s AW20 collection evolves at a steady pace to reflect the Autumn Winter season, with the luxury fashion designer reminding his guests that “clothes are not about the number inside and the gender.”

by Cara Jenkins

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