MIND, Melange, Motor was the title of French designer Marine Serre’s AW20 collection at Paris Fashion Week this Tuesday. In tune with her previous post-apocalyptic offerings, this season Serre continued her commentary on the climate crisis, presenting a “futurewear” collection that was half made from up-cycled garments.

Set in a barely illuminated, hollowed out, concrete space the models exited one-by-one into Serre’s very own hall of mirrors – a large projector screen forming the shows backdrop. Motifs from previous collections were carried forward for AW20, in the form of flashing orb-like pendants that hung, suspended from silver chains; and similar spherical bags, now identifiable as Serre’s Dream Ball bags, originally introduced as part of her AW18 collection.

The hooded, cocoon-like silhouette we saw last seasonemerged again, adapted in protective padded nylon, and working in harmony with a heavy dose of Serre’s signature second-skin lycra.

Dissimilar to last season’s Marée Noire,” crocheted white cotton – made from up cycled tablecloths – was the dominant fabric opening the show. This was followed by houndstooth, which appeared on oversized double-breasted coats, tailored skirts and cut-out dresses. A new crescent-moon monogram was introduced; this time reimagined as knitted ribbed trousers and thumbhole-sleeved tops.

As the collection moved away from a monochrome palette, fuchsia was presented. Models wore full looks – carrying reusable water bottles, miniature rucksacks and bum-bags – all in the same shade of pink. Up-cycled fair-isle knits, brandished with polar bears and snowflakes, were deconstructed and paired with leather-look moon embossed trousers, fur lined ushanka hats and excessive trinket jewellery.

A series of ochre damask prints, with curtain-like tassels and fringing, were drawn from discarded cushion covers and transformed into skirts, tops and dresses that featured throughout the collection. Serre’s vision of environmental apocalypse was a continuation of her previous work, searching for more sustainable solutions within design.

Since becoming the first ever French designer to win the LVMH prize, after her graduate collection in 2017, Serre has established a cult like following. It is hardly surprising when her designs act so unapologetically as a sign of the times.

by Augustine Hammond

Images: Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION

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