JACQUEMUS SS21

FASHION, for Simone Porte Jacquemus, is a sentimental subject. Created in memory of his late mother, the Jacquemus label is born out of deep-rooted melancholia, but it seems that sentiments of love and loss possess creative powers. As much as the French designer loves to create clothes, it is in fact the stories behind them that really matter.

From heartwarming anecdotes of his humble childhood to recollections of his mother’s style and spirit, Porte Jacquemus pours his personal stories onto the runway. And if one thing is certain, it is this: Jacquemus is a sartorial storyteller, whose poetic vision continues to astound his admirers all over the globe.

A year ago, Porte Jacquemus presented his SS20 collection in the undulating lavender hills of Provence. The idyllic setting of the designer’s hometown – along with the collection’s vibrant hues, oversized hats, and micro bags – sent Instagram feeds into a frenzy. The Provençal charm of the SS20 runway was always going to be hard to beat, but the designer found a close contender.

For SS21, one hundred guests were invited to the French Vexin Regional National Park, in which they were seated along the sidelines of a wooden catwalk, which wound its way through a golden field of wheat. Once again, Jacquemus sent Instagram feeds into a frenzy. But this time, there was no fuchsia pink in sight.

Entitled L’Amour, the SS21 show was more sentimental and emotional than ever, focusing on ethereal, earthy hues that truly embodied the bucolic setting. Showcasing both menswear and womenswear, the show opened with a gentle stream of white dresses, which made a strong case for bridal wear.

For women, maxi skirts and cropped shirts dominated the runway. The ensemble also featured a stomach-wrapping tie, which fixed both of the garments together while accentuating the female form.

For men, boxy shirts were paired with baggy shorts or straight leg jeans, accompanied occasionally by a double-breasted jacket to elevate the outfit. A memorable look was the suit ensemble with the cut-out hearts, which served as a reminder of the show’s theme of love.

Meanwhile, the leather fork-and-knife tassels which adorned another look were truly beguiling, bringing culinary elements to the table along with the strawberry punnet and picnic plate holder. Perhaps Jacquemus is trying to tell us that the only real way to one’s heart is through the stomach.

In spite of the ongoing pandemic, Jacquemus managed to stage a physical show. While it was by no means a necessity, it reminded us of the power of love – whether that is love for fashion, for family, for friends, or even love for food. And when the world feels like it is in ruins, what else do we really have left, but love?

by Rhiannon Jenkins

Watch Jacquemus’ magical SS21 show below.

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