HAS Covid-19 changed the way we dress forever? Responding to today’s new world, Samuel Ross, founder of the cult British label, A-Cold-Wall*, proposed his vision of post-lockdown style in the form of a short film, presented as part of Milan Fashion Week.

Marking the Brixton-born designer’s second unveiling of a runway-season collection in Milan, the online presentation, titled My Brother’s Keeper, dropped to the public and press on September 23, accompanied with specially commissioned text by British poet Wilson Oryema.

Directed by Pierre Debusschere and styled by Robbie Spencer, Ross’ SS21 collection unfolded in three parts, lockdown (act I), emergence from it (act II), and our progress to an unfamiliar future (act III).

Dimly lit and moodily shot, act I explores the bleak realities of isolation, through slow-motion visuals of models wrestling. In trademark hues of slate and ivory, as well as a striking tiger-red, padded hunting vests, ruched bombers and expertly-crafted knits put forward a new kind workwear wardrobe, offering an exquisite blend of sophistication, practicality and comfort.

The second section, signifying our gradual easing back into the working world, was set against a startlingly-bright white backdrop and featured highly-saturated shades of yellow and cream throughout. Long-length shirting was layered under gabardine field jackets – embossed A-C-W* tags draped around each model’s neck.

The last part, gesturing to an uncharted future, blurred the lines between act I and II. A utility-focused interpretation of the formal suit proposed an updated office uniform, while combat gilets came accessorised with monochrome cross-body bags.

Relaxed, functional, commercial – these are modern, high-quality clothes fit for our current ever-changing working environments.

by Joshua Hendren


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