LIKE many collections that have been unveiled over the past couple of months, designers created our future looks during lockdown. Creative Director Sarah Burton designed the Alexander McQueen womenswear spring-summer 2021 pre-collection from her home. The team used the out of stock fabric they already had lying around and just reimagined the old by over-printing and over-dying previous seasons material leftovers.
Trench coats are the armour of the SS21 McQueen woman, coming with exaggerated skirt bottoms, exploding collars and hybrid fabrics – perfect for the unreliable British weather. In true McQueen nature, tailoring played a lead role in this show, with tuxedo jackets, corseted dresses to enhance the female body and oversized men’s shirts that are made to be flattering leading the show.
Two outstanding looks from the SS21 pre-collection were two dresses that drew inspiration from the past and brought it effortlessly into the future.
Taking note from the SS03 show titled Irere, where the famous oyster dress was unveiled, Burton uses a similar technique in a ruffle dress. Designed with a high neckline and scalloped back and finished by dip-dyeing in black and pink, the dress is the perfect cocktail of rough and soft, feminine and masculine.
The other noteworthy dress was the final look of the collection. Using the drawings in the notebooks of the atelier team, an asymmetric floor-length dress with an enhanced skirt volume has the sketches hand-embroidered onto the nude silk tulle over a skeletal corset. Nothing short of magnificent!
Not a season goes by where craftsmanship isn’t on a pedestal. The spring-summer 2021 pre-collection is the perfect combination of new and old proving that revival is just as magical as something brand new.
by Imogen Clark