AMID the breathtaking baroque splendour of the Galleria Colonna in Rome, Pierpaolo Piccioli took Valentino in fresh, understated direction for his spring couture show, in a collection that paired futuristic savoir-faire with sleek colour-blocking and minimalist shapes.
Set to Massive Attack’s pounding 2016 experimental electro track Ritual, the pre-recorded fashion show, titled Code Temporal, saw models parading the marble runway in frothy sequinned designs splashed in muted shades of beige and cream, interspersed with flashes of dazzling neon.
Dreamy knitted v-necks and sleek separates came layered under slouchy tailoring and ruched trench coats in dusty tones, putting a pared-back spin on Piccioli’s signature avant-garde aesthetic.
Gargantuan metallic platforms and tinsel detailing injected an otherworldly edge into the 73-look lineup and twinned with the show’s fantastical beauty offering; golden, glitter-embellished faces.
The collection also marked the first time we’ve seen men’s haute couture featured on one of Valentino’s runways. Piccioli’s first foray into men’s couture offered up pistachio-green shirting thrown over shimmering pinstripe roll necks – each look finished with a pair of sumptuous cropped chinos.
Masterfully executed, Piccioli’s newly reformed approach to the art of haute couture was just as unforgettable as ever. As to whether the beloved designer will continue to carry the Italian Maison along this unprecedented path is unclear. One thing is for certain, however, this will undoubtedly be the most talked-about show of the season.
by Joshua Hendren
