WITH another fashion week confined to the digital sphere, Creative Director Mark Weston decided to take a different approach to designing the AW21 Dunhill collection. Focusing this season on the individual garment and accessory rather than themes, the eye is in the detail.
Fittingly titled Compendium, there is a focus on creating pieces with multi-functionality, something made that will last and pass the test of time. The collection dances on this playful equilibrium where naivety and sophistication stand tall at either end and the collection finds itself flowing between.
Finding inspiration by looking into the Dunhill archive, Weston came across this vintage, compact cigarette cases that included a watch, a lighter and a knife. It was from here that the idea of compendium sprung from; how could you translate this idea of quality and beauty but into garments?
The addition of liners and hoods came into play giving the Dunhill wearer the ability to add, wear separate or style how they wish.
This notion links to something Weston places emphasis on, he wants Dunhill pieces to be timeless quite literally the opposite of disposability. Bringing this collection together is the Dunhill Compendium Parka, a coat that can be zipped to transform into a jacket, a lining that can be worn on its own separately.
A particular favourite of mine is the knitted vest with Aran and cardigan stitching, playing on British motifs along with an injection of colour to make it contemporary, as well as the ox-blood coloured smock neck parka that alludes to couture-like silhouettes.
Innovation is a buzz word every brand is trying to claim but Dunhill deserves credit with their new take on shearling. Using fibres that are knitted together to create the illusion of shearling however with less-weight and no killing of the sheep involved in the process.
Though the collection looks forward, Weston hinted at his own past. A sure must-have accessory for next season will be his multi-coloured knitted scarf – he replicated the one his mother had made him as a child.
In terms of accessories, the Lock Bag is back however with a motor twist. The Lock Bag GT, inspired by car interior enters the Dunhill sphere with a bang. Coming in new colours and quilted leather, creating a much fresher take on the more formal bag along with a new silhouette that includes a top handle and a larger size.
With the emphasis being on detail, Dunhill has created a collection made up of pieces that not only stand strong alone but together are a testament to thought-through design.