MIUCCIA Prada and Raf Simons have found their groove. The much-anticipated collaboration of the two masterminds began with a collection that set the tone for what is to come. Some were disappointed by the lack of extravagance but this collection made up for it.
The Prada autumn-winter 2021 collection has perfected the notion of how to balance sleek, understated elegance with colour, textures and sparkle – something rarely ever executed right.
The collection was born from the idea of change and transformation, potentially the reality of coming out of this heartbreaking era of distance and death looming closer pushed the two designers to dazzle us with a collection meant to be worn out.
Looking at combining both intrinsically feminine and masculine themes and putting them into clothing and exploring the unchartered space between excess and practicality.
With this in mind, looking at the body and how to enhance certain parts, fitted bodysuits made from stretch jacquard-knit becomes a substitute for exposed skin – again, this is AW21 but Prada is in charge.
Pleats and gathers animate dresses to show the movement of the wearer while tailored suits include vents to take something conventionally constrained and giving it some freedom.
I mentioned groove, well the Prada AW21 is presenting a new type of vibe. Swapping somewhat impractical evening gowns for jumpsuits and tailored coats but infusing them with bright, vibrant colours, the codes for the new normal are being presented to us.
Rectilinear wraps become new statement outerwear pieces in re-nylon and jacquard, as well as faux-fur and sequins. Reflecting the classic Miuccia pose where she holds onto the middle of her coat, this piece offers a sense of protection and grace with it.
The collection is both modern and classic, a walking contradiction but one we all want to wear. Sequins are used as if they were a banal fabric and faux-fur has truly never looked chicer.
After establishing the key codes to this new era of Prada last season, this collection feels exciting, with a sense of renewal and glamour. Building upon the foundation the two creatives lay, they haven’t just built a house they built a palace of fun. If there is anything to look forward to, it’s dancing in sequins to the music of Miuccia and Raf.