CREATIVE Director Jonny Johansson focused on wellbeing for his AW21 collection for Acne Studios, which blended experimental draping with voluminous silhouettes in well-worn fabrics.
“I was thinking about what happens when we emerge from isolation, the same but also somehow different,” says Johansson. “This collection is a dreamscape that begins with soft pastel colours, before awakening into monochromatic clarity, which is an ode to the white or black clothes worn for rituals in our life cycle, like weddings and funerals.”
The collection sees exaggerated volumes clash with playful ruching techniques. Wrap coats in floral-printed wool were reminiscent of dressing gowns, with an oversized buckle cinching the waist. Other garments came distressed; pyjamas were hand-bleached and over-dyed, while leather trenches and jackets were elevated with brushed seams, creating a denim-like appearance in an ode to the brand’s beginnings as a denim label.
Elsewhere, slouchy knits had the effect of a “long-loved teddy bear”, with hems left raw and open-knit cable jumpers revealing the skin beneath.
As for the accessories, artist Apollinaria Broche created ceramic animals that came held like bags. Miniature versions of these designs appeared attached to chokers and earrings, alongside chunky hand-knitted mittens that injected a homey feel.
Chic clog boots were a stand-out, cut from cowhide, and appeared alongside leather boots, stiletto-heel pumps and strappy sandals worn over thick socks.
Comforting, versatile and high-spirited; If this is how we’ll be dressing when this is all over, you can count me in.