FOR THE past 16 years, British designer Erdem Moralioglu has established his namesake brand as one of the country’s frontiers in women’s luxury fashion. Immediately recognised for the poetic nature of the clothes, his ability to encompass romance and delicate femininity into the seams of clothes has secured his place at the top. Now, Erdem is seeking a new challenge – menswear.
“The idea of menswear has been in my mind for some time” confesses the designer. “I have always been interested in the conversation and exchange between male and female expression. As our womenswear collections have expanded, I’ve loved how male members of the team wear pieces in different ways. The boundaries between womenswear and menswear are evermore fluid and exciting”.
Taking inspiration for his debut collection from the wardrobe of film director Derek Jarman and using the colours from painter Patrick Procktor’s paintings. Maintaining the same tone by creating clothes that balance elegance with comfort, and detailed craftsmanship with refinement, the collection is utilitarian in nature whilst providing the wearer with a classic look.
Knitted tank tops and boilersuits directly mirror images of Jarman, while Erdem imagined what a younger version of the creative might have worn with woolly socks and wide-legged shorts providing a youthful element to a grown-up collection.
Mohair jumpers and cardigans are designed with a slouchier silhouette and cable-knit jumpers add that classic British countryside touch. Button-down shirts are contrasted with collarless versions providing each personal style with something that would suit their taste.
With this first collection standing strong, the complex romanticism that Erdem has continually executed so well has eased its way into menswear so naturally, it is only a matter of time before the name Erdem becomes a household name in men’s fashion.