Fendi unveils the menswear spring-summer 2022 collection
ABOVE the clouds of the Italian capital, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi looked down upon her family brand’s founding city and concluded that freedom was the answer. The question leading to this conclusion was centred around the endless possibilities regarding the theme of the spring-summer 2022 Fendi menswear collection.
You can argue that the past year’s confinement would lead the designer to this response, the concept of the headquarters being so high above ground certainly helped spark this idea.
Not only can you see the entirety of Rome from the any window of the building, but the seven hills, Apennine Mountains and speckles of the Mediterranean are all in sight too. On the one hand, you balance the juxtaposition of traditional architecture with the trend of modern buildings, and on the other, you value the unstructured giants of rock with the fluidity of the sparkling crystal sea.
There is freedom not just in man-made objects but in nature. Freedom is everywhere – we just need to change our perspective.
“Our singular point of view in this period has modified our perception of the world – and mind has become so linked to what I see from the arches and the rooftop of our building,” reflects Silvia. “It is almost like a bird’s eye view of Rome from here. The colours and the perspective are always changing – the soft palette of the Roman sky across the day is so beautiful and I wanted it to be a focal point of this collection.”
With the view of the SS22 collection now in focus, a colour palette that reflects the hues of Italy’s sky are taken to create a pastel focused set of clothes. Classic tones of lemon and lime are contrasted with lavender, pistachio green and peony interrupted by hints of chalk and graphite to inject an element of darkness into the light.
Maps of the city, prints of the FF logo and drawings of the Palazzo Fendi, are taken as codes for this season. To accompany this array of detailing, a new topographic simulation, named Fendi Earth (similar to the older Fendi Land motif) is transformed into linens, threaded into embroidery on crochet and highlighted within the intarsia shearling to reflect the archived view of Rome from the Fendi point of view.
A new take on the city comes with a new take on clothes – tailoring has changed, and the designer has decided on new volumes, dimensions and silhouettes. Wool jackets are cropped with torsos on display, shorts are shorter and waists have dropped all telling you that this new era requires freedom and the dare to bare some skin.
However, though the rules may have slightly changed there is still some Fendi uniform amongst the new with the savoir-faire of the atelier still shining bright. Trench coats with vents, shirts finished with Selleria stitching and the classic fabric trio of suede, calfskin and cotton embossed, dyed and pleated.
Accessories still march to the same beat with the Peekaboo and Baguette returning this summer in new variations such as matte nylon and perspex, to name a few, as well as larger luggage pieces helping kickstart that holiday feeling.
Taking the beginnings of a new dawn and understanding the liberation that is approaching has planted the seeds for a fun collection. One that is learning to embrace change and is at the forefront of it. Not every consumer will be wow-ed by the cropped suits, but nonetheless, the collection is wearable, chic and utterly desirable.
This was more than a show, it was a playful escape in the sky and I am not ready to land.