AS FASHION week progresses, my words from the past year that emphasised how fashion muted its tone due to the continuous cycle of lockdowns has never been more distant.
The Temperley SS22 show notes begin with the phrase More is More, and that is exactly what Alice Temperley has done this season – expect print and lots of it too.
Reviving the extravagant nature of 1970s patterns, Temperley also takes inspiration from the glamour written about in Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile and the beauty of Moroccan mosaics. Together, they come together to create a new, more contemporary version of bohemian glamour.
The British brand has always kept rare, untouched femininity at its core, continually ensuring that silhouettes left those admiring the Temperley woman in a daze as she floats away in a long dress. Silks were draped into empire line gowns and wrap dresses hinting at the heat those in the novel would’ve experienced, while embroidered house coats, jumpsuits and ruffles expose the brand’s signature pieces.
Going further than before, collage artists Mariam Schapiro, renowned for her art that challenged the patriarchal structure of the sector she works in, sees her work echo in the trompe l’oeil ribbon work and deft collages presenting a collection with a cohesion that celebrates creative women.
In the words of Robert Kushner that are written in the show notes, “Decoration has always had its own agenda; the sincere and unabashed offering of pleasure and solace”.
by Imogen Clark