THERE is evidently a lot to unpack after the lockdowns and with London’s partial return to physical shows this season, designer Osman Yousefzada wants us to remember we are connected as a world more than ever.
As a part of Western society, one that is privileged and at the forefront of vaccinations, Yousefzada emphasises in his show notes how we must resist the temptation to return to our removed selves pre-pandemic. So, how does this ideology translate into the Osman SS22 collection?
The British-born designer is aware of the negative impact that the fashion industry has on the environment and he posed the question “What happened to last season’s clothes?” If a new collection is demanded of him due to the calendar of fashion, then he was going to create with a purpose beyond clientele demand.
In collaboration with TENCEL™ Luxe, he created 15 looks made entirely from sustainably sourced wood pulp that is transformed into filament that mimics the properties of silk.
Both biodegradable and Vegan Society approved, sheer catsuits, opera coats and taffeta injected little black dresses came to life.
The SS22 collection made room for both smart and casual attire, presenting a spectrum that begins with workwear silhouettes and finished as architectural tailoring and floor-grazing couture-esque dresses.
Artisanal fabrics woven by hand using techniques that have been handed down for centuries in India and Pakistan were showcased on the runway alongside bohemian-inspired hand-loomed ikat two-pieces returning us to this idea of connection.
You can always expect decadent glamour at Osman, one that brings us back to Hollywood and films, however the hair and make-up added to this vision. David Gillers was inspired by the early 2000s creating a matte base on the skin and then using strong highlighter on the cheekbones and shimmering bold colours on the eye.
The hair, done by Ryo Narushima, aligned with the opulence but ensured it was a little scruffy as the hair-stylist said that no one is completely put together in the evenings.
The execution of Osman’s spring-summer 2022 collection left no room for error and it certainly passed with flying colours. But beyond the brillance of the gowns, Yousefzada’s aim to make us think was one that has gone beyond this common outlook of optimism.
He has not shied away from the past but uses it as mechanism to change our perspective, and after all isn’t fashion meant to say something?.
by Imogen Clark