MARKING his last solo collection for the eponymous house, Kean Etro infused clothing with a delicate sense of poetry speaking to his love of literature with an array of artistic references.
A step away from his last summer menswear collection, of which was a colourful display of disco influences and 70s glamour, Etro took a much more muted approach for 2023, formatting the show in a circadian rhythm-like structure, opening with monochromatic whites before graduating into metallic threads and a plethora of floral motifs.
Focusing on poetry as the main source of inspiration, invitations for the show were not physical keepsakes but rather a phone call of which a select collection of poems were recited, perfectly preempting the collection.
As always, Etro leaned into a subtle sense of sexuality and interpretable queer coding with exposed torsos, short-shorts and broderie anglaise exposing the body. Jeans were layered over swim shorts and partnered with a soft flowing shirt while an array of relaxed suits were shown with tank tops or bare chests, juggling a carefree attitude with fine craftsmanship.
In a similar sense to some of the creative’s favourite poems, Etro stripped down to maximise and enhance the overall looks, arguably bringing a ‘less is more’ type of approach in their own way, yet not denying consumers the bold and intricate prints of which the house has become known for.
Though not all models wore footwear during the fashion week presentation, a metaphor for reconnecting with the earth, those that did sported sandals and shoes with rope soles to compliment delicate materials of the garments.
A series of Japanese influences were also interpretable in the designer’s vision with jackets sealed with obi belts and patterned kimonos featured in a number of looks. A series of kaftans, some with metallic floral jacquards likewise made their way down the sun-soaked runway, epitomising a distinguishable sense of freedom and lightness evident throughout.
by Ben Sanderson