ATTENTION to detail was at the forefront of Matthew M. Williams’ mind for the Givenchy spring-summer 2023 collection. Marking his first standalone menswear collection for the French fashion House, the designer took this moment to look at its history and the codes that signify Givenchy from a modern perspective, focused on technological and artisanal execution whilst also weighing on heavily the aesthetics from those in his close circle.
“Menswear was, quite naturally, the way I discovered fashion,” notes Williams. “In my practice at Givenchy, my men’s collections came from an instinctive starting point. This show is a reflection of myself and the men who surround me, from my close friends to the artists who inspire my work.
It’s a dialogue with the time and culture that shape the way men dress today and tomorrow: the way new generations embrace and evolve the archetypes and dress codes of the past through their own progressive outlook”.
Dissecting the looks circulating him from a lens that aligns with the Maison, Williams investigated how to innovate garments through the looking glass of savoir-faire. This cross-pollination of styles resulted in the introduction of a new tailoring silhouette – one that emerged in black and grey with a relaxed volume.
Blazers and coats were seen alongside matching trousers that were ripped at the knee, exposing a logo printed lining bringing his synonymous taste of streetwear to the runway.
Shell jackets were also seen coming in super-lightweight leather, camouflage print had its moments on both cargo trousers and tactical vests, and a notable varsity jacket featuring logo embroidery made a direct nod to the Creative Director as it included a tarot card motif that mirrored Williams’ leg tattoo.
Evolving and enhancing Givenchy’s accessory offering this season brought back some of the much-loved sneakers, like the TK-silhouettes, even reimagining the TK-360 trainer into a MID edition that has a higher frame and comes in monochrome colour-ways, while the bags were made to reflect the upcycling of the collection.
Oversized shoppers, backpacks, triangle bags and Antigona cross-body bags utilise the laminated leather scraps in un-dyed tones from previous shows and create patchworks across their sides.
All of these new intersections come together to present a much-needed look purely at Givenchy’s menswear. Williams’ time at Givenchy has been well-received and this moment of focus fine-tunes his aesthetic during his tenure here honing in on what his does so well.
by Imogen Clark