ALWAYS bordering on queer rave culture and the street style of New York, Dion Lee yet again brought a cohesive collection of sexual allusions and mechanical structures, culminating in a line-up of very timely garments perfect for the upcoming Spring season.
It’s a given at any Dion Lee show that you’re going to see some skin. Whether in explicit ways or through careful cut outs and draping, Lee’s often provocative garments are the perfect nod to modern day nightlife and social media fashion bravado. Focusing on the idea of anatomy, both human and plant, Lee infused a series of interesting structures and fabric manipulations, from boned bodysuits to ruched sheer tops, creating a sense of diversity and difference, all the while remaining true to the core of the brand. Now more than ever, Lee’s post-apocalyptic dialogue is especially poignant, and tiptoes on the line of a Denis Villeneuve production meets New York street style.
Another given at a Dion Lee show is his use of tailoring often contrasted by the technicality of the other garments. Two piece suits consisting of cropped blazers adorned in buckles and low-rise trousers are a palette-refresher of barely there harness tops and form-fitting catsuits, ultimately providing an idealistic day-to-night wardrobe for any bold enough to sport his designs.
With a collection entirely influenced by the shape and anatomy of the human body, now would have been the perfect opportunity to demonstrate an awareness of greater body representation – something to consider implementing moving forward.
However what continues to make Lee an interesting designer is his ability to capture the style zeitgeist in a way which continually nods to the founding pillars of his brand. There are a multitude of ways one can read into his designs, but one thing for sure is that they certainly resonates with an audience of post-modern fashion futurists, something echoed yet again with his collection for Spring 2023.
by Ben Sanderson