‘ONE’, Stefan Cooke’s spring/summer 2023 collection hits the floor at London Fashion Week and channels a fresh, uptown style that is made for living.
Taking pride in the house’s value, conservation, renewal, and overall impeccable technique, the striking gender-neutral collection poses bold silhouettes, neat tailoring, and eye-drawing designs – a mix between fantasy and reality.
Jumping between the times, we are treated to Victorian styled bodices that contrasted the on-going theme of preppiness. The collection feels incredible contemporary with hints towards appreciated dressmaking skills of the ages – even batwing, silk bomber style jackets can be seen as if they’re straight from the 90s!
This heritage themed collection includes Trompe- l’oeil, light washes, cording, elastic and bedroom patching – a huge list of techniques that are pulled off seamlessly and the construction element of this season leaves something for everyone, embodying a thoroughly inclusive runway.
There is an overruling theme of impulsion throughout which is not a bad thing! Classic t-shirts have been turned from what was once a casual item in your wardrobe to a statement piece making each looks as if they have been drowned in sequins from the neck down and devoré trousers carry a burnt aesthetic.
The colour palette of the collection includes wedgwood blue, cherry red, porcelain white, dawn pink and hints of cream, all of which match perfectly to the heritage scarves that feature the ‘best of’ Stefan Cooke.
Footwear sees a mannish yet sensible style with a signature slash technique in the leather and we can also make out what seems to be a Pegasus motif, adding to the mythical elements of the collection.
To round up, a strong knitwear element is featured, rare for a summertime series, however they carry dainty notes that still feel protective. The silhouettes are shrunken, washed, yet comfortable, and make the perfect outwear accessory for the warmer nights. All in all, as another season passes Stefan Cooke has an unwavering sense of understanding that clothes should be designed to be worn and practical making his SS23 collection the ideal wishlist for next year.