Jil Sander SS23

BASING A collection on an entire geographical location is one sure way to be eclectic and runs the risk of being cluttered. However, Luke and Lucie Meier’s inspiration of California culminated in a collection which masterfully walked the viewer through a playground of different lifestyles, from old Hollywood glam to the intimidating futurism of Silicon Valley. If we are to base our style forecasts according to Jil Sander spring-summer 2023 collection then we are set to be abundant in feathers, sequins and distorted silhouettes.

Though shown in Milan, and deriving inspiration from the crown jewel of the West Coast, there was an undoubtable essence of London grit present in the latest collection. Be it the rejection of formality on gendered silhouettes, elongated torsos, or marriage of high glamour with street style – it’s hard not to imagine the streets of the Capital when reviewing the garments.

That being said, its interesting marriage of different Californian lifestyles proved successful, contrasting elements of hippy culture with that of workwear: “We started from the idea and feeling of what the West Coast represents: a new and different world…we merged different elements in search of a modern balance: workwear’s geometric patterns with Hollywood’s sartorial glamour, romanticism, and realism.”

As with any Jil Sander collection, the effortless sartorial language was inherent in almost every ensemble, and is what helped to reel in an endless whirlwind of Californian influence back to the brand’s roots. However, its infusion of free-flowing feathers and sequins made for a welcomed separation and immediately reimagined ideals of old Hollywood for a modern age. 

It is sometimes difficult to understand a collection with such bold views and eclectic foundations but, and it is with no surprise considering the recurring perfect minimalism that is a Jil Sander show, the garments worked with one another harmoniously.

Though the bygone Hollywood age and ideals such as the American Dream are ones doted on so frequently, Luke and Lucie Meier reinterpreted elements of each Californian facet which seemed provocative and poised to resonate with a far-reaching audience outside of the one it has placed on a pedestal this season.

by Ben Sanderson


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