THE SHOW that gave us the pearl-clutching moment of Carla Bruni trying to overtake Naomi Campbell on the runway, TOD’s presented a wonderland of monochrome in Milan last week with a timelessly chic collection that fused function with tactility.
Ever the artisans, TOD’s manipulation of leather manifested in a series of midi-dresses so smooth you would be forgiven for assuming they were silk at first glance. This raw, essence of sensuality was echoed throughout the collection, from python trench coats to square neck tank tops that give the allusion they are about to slip off one’s shoulder.
What TOD’s continually do so well is simplicity, but not in a way that is mundane. For spring 2023 they present a collection so versatile it opens itself up to almost every age group, and every gender, with enough functionality to be adapted to the individual. Making yet another case for the resurrection of 80s power dressing (something we are certainly not mad at) padded outwear creates an armour-like exterior, contrasted perfectly by the fluidity of silk shirts, tailored trousers and corset-like cummerbunds, an ensemble straight out of the wardrobe of Katherine Hepburn.
Of course, as with any collection by the Italian house, it’s all eyes on the accessories, which certainly did not disappoint. A modern reinterpretation of power dressing, sky high stilettos are replaced with pebble sole ballet flats, shattering the neutral colour palette in highlighter shades of yellow and purple. A variety of top handle bags, coming in pony fur with gold T hardware are likewise introduced alongside a reinvigorated selection of Di Bags, designed for the first time in a mosaic of different leathers, a hopefully continued comment on luxury upcycling.
What TOD’s has presented is a collection able to be divided into a plethora of capsule wardrobes. It’s simplicity married with intricacy makes it the perfect base of individual interpretation, imagined in hard wearing, raw materials sure to last the test of time. Though a spring-summer collection yes, it makes the perfect case for trans-seasonal dressing with a welcomed dosage of sensuality sure to resonate with many.
by Ben Sanderson