CONCLUDING a month long of fashion shows with a supersized collection, Nicolas Ghesquière’s spring-summer 2023 collection for Louis Vuitton ensured that his audience’s focus were on the details. Considered a ‘stylistic exercise’, the designer decided to re-evaluate the proportions of clothing and the design language associated with certain items through magnifying them. By making XL versions of zippers, pockets and buckles on the looks, Ghesquière has unsettled the linear codes of femininity, tipping the scale to a place seemingly unsettling to the viewer as the usually hidden details are now put at the forefront of the clothes.
By making these little things infinitely larger, or in some cases infinitely smaller, is not only a way to add a new spark to LV’s repertoire of innovation but when dissected, is a clever way to pay respect to the House’s longstanding history of the celebrating the components that make up clothes. Lock, label and clasp are all heritage pieces that stretch right to the beginning of the Maison’s humble beginnings as leather trunk experts, and are custodians of this on-going fashion story.
Unfolding under a gigantic flower designed by artist Philippe Parreno in the Cour Carrée by the Lourve, the SS23 collection did not want to minimise anything, especially our attention to detail. While showcasing the finer details, there was always merit to be given when it comes to the material technicalities and choices by Ghesquière. Brown leather trenches, cocoon jackets and patterned lace tights were sentiments to the more refined Louis Vuitton woman, while more notable youthful looks included tweed dresses that were printed and then embroidered, and the use of a ruffled, wavy fabric to give a 3D element to two-pieces.
Looking back at the season we just saw, it was nice to see a designer have some more fun with their spring-summer 2023 collection. Though there was a somewhat childlike element to this offering, it does not undermine Ghesquière’s clear intention of making us aware of the finer details of our clothes. And while there is a beauty in subtlety, there is far more fun in the obvious.
by Imogen Clark