NYFW AW23: Tory Burch

TORY Burch breaks traditional perceptions of beauty and femininity in her upcoming autumn-winter 2023 collection. With an emphasis on simplicity, the American brand reinterprets familiar silhouettes through sculpting, tailoring, and twisting.

The collection reflects a modern wardrobe of pieces to mix and match for both day and evening wear. The showcase revealed a contrast between loose and fitted silhouettes, using tailoring to create a close fit and flowing fabrics for a relaxed look. Lingerie-inspired pieces like mesh dresses and lace camisoles feature exposed boning and hooks.

Luxury materials are intentionally made to look worn, while logos are prominently displayed on bags. The release embraces imperfection, incorporating broken heels and exposed construction details.

The fact that the jacquard dresses look “backwards” and the pleated skirts are somewhat awry serves to emphasise that there are no hard and fast rules about how to wear any particular item. Tension is created by fabrics, which can range from ultra-luxurious to technologically advanced to sumptuously sheer. The palette is mostly brown and red, with splashes of cherry, cobalt, and peridot to liven things up.

Handbags and shoes also receive the undone treatment, with sharp metal logos “falling off” top-handle bags and asymmetrical “sliced” logos adorning square-toe heels. Classic pointed pumps have a single “broken” stiletto heel. Jewellery allows for exploration by featuring vibrant crystal clip-ons that can be placed anywhere on the ear, in addition to bulky chains that can be draped around wrists and even handbags.

Overall, this collection is about unapologetically being yourself and not following rules. The AW23 collection challenges traditional perceptions of beauty and femininity and celebrates imperfection, creating a modern wardrobe for the confident and self-assured woman.

by Zlata Kryudor 

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