PFW AW23: Undercover

THE inspiration for the collection came from The Specials and Manuel Göttsching, two artists who had a profound impact on Jun Takahashi’s life. He pays homage to them by including The Specials’ ska two-tone suits and rude boy style, along with black and white checkers, a graphic symbol of ska, in the collection. The off-white and brown checkers from Göttsching’s E2-E4 album cover also found their way into the release.

The standout pieces were metallic suits that featured intricate embroidery of hands and roses, paying homage to the band’s significant influence on Takahashi’s musical journey. In addition, the showcase included several unique items, such as floral-covered fleece jackets, nylon trench coats, and graphic knitwear. These pieces were adorned with lyrics from The Specials’ hit song, “Enjoy Yourself,” as well as visuals from Manuel Göttsching’s E2-E4 album cover.

One of the key trends in the collection was checkered outerwear in neutral tones of beige and brown, emblazoned with a combination of FRGMT logos and names. Among the many other noteworthy details showcased were the down-filled capes, asymmetrical collars, zippers, glittery woven bottoms, and shiny thigh-high boots.

Wraparound head-coverings that folded across the ribcage were paired with menacing silk hoodies in this collection. These garments made quite a splash on the runway and demonstrated the designer’s commitment to pushing boundaries with his ideas.

Takahashi’s ability to incorporate conceptual elements into his designs was on full display displayed through illustrated outerwear, featuring designs that seemed like they were done by kids with inscriptions like “NO EXIT,” “CHAOS,” and “I’m not okay” written across them. 

Undercover’s AW23 collection is a reminder to embrace life and its ups and downs, while also paying tribute to the power of music and its ability to inspire and connect us all. With this collection, Jun Takahashi has once again proven himself to be a visionary in the world of fashion.

by Zlata Kryudor 


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