PFW AW23: Paco Rabanne

PACO Rabanne’s most recent collection is a true masterpiece that showcases the brand’s continued commitment to innovation and surrealism. Designed by Julien Dossena, AW23 takes inspiration from the longstanding friendship between Paco Rabanne and Salvador Dalí, two Spanish visionaries who shared a radical artistic expression.

Materials like hairy wool, lurex fragments, and metal mesh are used to produce a strange, dreamlike aesthetic, making this collection one of a kind. The shimmering, ethereal look of the strass-studded mousseline is reminiscent of a shroud. The hanging crystals on the gowns look like ice cubes, while the metallic embellishment on the clothes represents the fur of a magical creature.

The statuesque silhouettes of the collection create a sensual and mesmerising impression. Featuring long and direct shapes that drape and pool toward the ground, these austere statements envelop the body, creating an unforgettable look that is both mystic and mysterious. The subtle richness of synthetic lavender, sfumato blue, ochre, and almond add depth to the gleaming metal and elemental black, creating a harmonious colour palette that adds to the collection’s surrealism.

The looks are completed by skin-tight boots with floating reflective wedges and sharp silver flats reminiscent of Paco Rabanne’s first decade. Bags in the series have organic, compact forms and pastilles that have been torqued and twisted. The bags also have shiny colour over assemblages.

The final five pieces of the show are archival pieces designed to honour the couturier’s legacy and highlight the inventive craftsmanship that defines the ageless and totemic women of Paco Rabanne.

The collection is a magical exploration of unexpected materials and silhouettes that capture the surrealist spirit of the brand. Designer Julien Dossena‘s dreamy exploration of textures leaves a lasting impression on the viewer, making this release a true masterpiece that is sure to be remembered for years to come.

by Zlata Kryudor 

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