PFW AW23: Valentino

VALENTINO‘s autumn-winter 2023 collection challenges the traditional dress code of black tie, redefining it as an invitation for creative expression. Pierpaolo Piccioli takes inspiration from the everyday, transforming conventional signifiers into a range of garments that blur the boundaries between daywear and evening wear.

The collection’s focus on tailoring and a pared-back colour palette emphasizes modernity and dynamism while retaining the Maison Valentino’s distinct vocabulary of couture gestures, graphic patterns, and superlative craft. The Rockstud, a signature of the brand since 2010, punctuates the show, adding an aesthetic double-speak of history and contemporary, renaissance, and punk.

Uniformity, often associated with stripping away individuality, is reimagined as a societal tool of conformity that enhances humanity and accentuates individual persona. The release challenges conventional notions of uniformity and dress codes, honouring the multifaceted essence of Valentino.

Piccioli’s collection is a testament to the power of reinterpretation and redefinition. The tie, a symbol of masculine power and orthodoxy, is untied and transformed into diverse permutations of dresses and gowns worn by men and women alike. Black tie, a literal description, becomes a figure of speech for a collection that toys with rules, emancipating meaning.

The showcase is a celebration of nuance and individuality, amplified by the frame of homogeny. Each garment, each persona, is unique in its own right, yet enhanced by the similarities that bring them together. The collection is a contradiction of our preconceived notions of dress codes and uniformity, redefined entirely with new meaning and context.

by Zlata Kryudor 


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