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REWORKING, repurposing and reinventing clothes has always been a primordial characteristic of any Vivienne Westwood collection.

Now, nine months after the fashion icon’s death, Andreas Kronthaler has revisited Dame Vivienne Westwood’s own wardrobe of rebellious dress to further immortalise her enigmatic style.

For the brand’s spring-summer 2024 collection, Kronthaler went through Vivienne’s archive and pulled pieces to provide inspiration for the seasonal offering. Naming the collection 43 Old Town – after the house the designer duo shared together – Kronthaler recreated 39 of Vivienne’s most iconic looks.

Speaking about Westwood, Kronthaler comments: “[I] loved the way she dressed. Always the opposite of everybody else. Wore things until they fell apart – her corduroy suit which she wore over twenty years constantly. A great mender always done in bed – never wasted anything. She understood how to make the most of herself – the most of it! Her thought was always somewhere else, somewhere exciting, that’s what made her so attractive. She had a very special relationship to time, she truly travelled in her mind. Love her so much.”

The SS24 runway presentation was held at the hotel Pavillon Vendôme in the French capital – a secluded, exclusive setting chosen to mirror the intimacy of the collection.

Everyone who is anyone in the industry – including Pamela AndersonBarbara PalvinCoco Rocha and Jefferson Hack–  sat in eager anticipation awaiting the parade of bold, eclectic looks.

A live band providing the soundtrack of the show, Kronthaler set out to enthral and bewitch the audience by exhibiting a collection following the brand’s signature dress codes.

The opening look of the show was a recreation of Westwood’s renowned Inferno Jacket from her fall-winter 2004/05 runway. Meanwhile, look 30 was arguably the most talked about ensemble from the presentation.

A raffia lace dress was carefully paired with a cascading, elegant veil to reference the designer’s Storm In a Teacup spring-summer 1996 collection. Perfectly structured corsets were also showcased alongside ultra-platform boots, semi-sheer fabrics and embroidered embellishments – key assets to Westwood’s trail-blazing style.

Naturally, for any Westwood collection, details never go amiss. With extravagant sunglasses paired with bold makeup looks, statement jewellery pieces and fingerless gloves, Westwood’s personality radiated from each and every look.

Furthering the intimate atmosphere of the show, Cora Corre, Westwood’s granddaughter, was seen parading down the runway alongside notable figures such as Irina Shayk and Amelia Gray.

Presenting yet another impressive collection, Kronthaler continues to nurture the brand with dignity, elegance and care.

by Sophie Richardson


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