AFTER Sabato De Sarno’s debut last September, the over-eclectic aesthetic of Gucci was a staple of the past and a new, more refined era was clearly upon us.
Now, embarking on his first menswear collection for the Italian House for autumn-winter 2024, the designer expressed the same desire to create cool clothes, “It is a story of fabulous, diverse people; it’s Getty images of cool people of all ages, and it’s inclusive as in everyone is welcomed”.
For much of the collection, it was a continuation of looks that reflected the womenswear show – very much signifying a his and hers vibe to the brand that he began with a series of airport-based campaigns starring famous couples.
Similarities stretched further as colour, accessories and material echoed one another. It was sensual, sexy and full of thought.
Ties were loose and against bare chests with shirts clearly a thing of the past, vests hung low, trousers are studded and handbags are worn by everyone. What was important to notice was tailoring. It was clean, slick and slim. A full-look overcoat, bag, shoes, tie and trousers were all embossed in a new GG print hinting at what could be to come in further collections.
While De Sarno’s Gucci seems like a complete juxtaposition to what we have come to know the brand for, there are hints of Tom Ford’s tenure peeping through. Sex appeal, a yearning to show more and a taste for rich colour tones are all something we will see more of.