JONATHAN Anderson single-handedly made Loewe the ‘it’ brand. Employing a list of brand ambassadors that redefine cool, from Taylor Russell, Taeyong and Josh O’Connor to most recently Jamie Dornan, to designing clothes with a personality, Loewe’s AW24 menswear show was one eagerly anticipated.
Taking the very nature of celebrity culture, from social media feeds to paparazzi images and turning it into one collage with the help of American artist Richard Hawkins, the latest collection was about streamlining all of this noise into ready-to-wear.
Ensuring a fluidity was kept to weave together the pieces, layering, tucking and fastening were key elements to this wish for cohesion – think shoes to socks, trousers to jackets, belts fastened around waists, it was all about imposing.
Aptly collaborating with Hawkins, an artist known for his fascination for the male body and its representation in modern media, the pair brought his collages to clothing, seen through full-length knitted dresses, bags and sweatpants, as well as across the venue, displaying 12 video collages of ambassadors and influencers in promiscuous clips.
Favouring staple pieces rather than full-looks has become an intriguing part of Anderson’s Loewe. Understanding that his audience have their own taste and own vision of their style, he has managed to put RTW ahead of accessories, favouring an eclectic aesthetic that emphasises expressionism.