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DESPITE being renowned for classic looks and cuts, Tory Burch’s autumn-winter 2024 collection featured many contemporary, cutting-edge looks.

For SS24, the philanthropic designer aimed to emancipate the female body within our current zeitgeist. Now, we see AW24 continue in a similar vein.

“For Fall/Winter 2024, we continued to explore volume and silhouette in new ways: with sharp edges, usual textures, and technical sport details. Architectural shapes are engineered from the inside out, an approach used in handbag construction.

Seams are raw-cut, heat-sealed, and bonded to add dimension without weight. Squared-off skirts and precise blazers contrast with hyper-feminine dresses,” explained the esteemed creative director.

Despite such a focus on form and volume, it’s the minutiae which truly round off the collection. From hand-painted sequins to 3D-printed faux acetate, the collection aims to explore the beauty in the banal.

Everyday items such as old jackets and shower caps have proved to be the starting point for various ensembles throughout the collection. For example, angular dresses and skirts mirror the construction of lampshades and were crafted to fold and collapse in an origami-inspired manner.

As models sauntered down the New York Public Library’s runway to a backing track of The Cure and Joy Division, onlookers were presented with an array of textural chefs d’œuvre. Utilising raw denim, calf hair, crushed nylon, sturdy cotton, paper leather, tinsel raffia and jersey mesh, the collection explores playful fabrications.

However, the focus primarily rests on lightness and versatility. Feminine silhouettes are left free of complex interior padding or constructions to allow movement and ease, while seams are bonded in an ode to versatile performance gear.

And when it comes to accessories, Tory Burch has called upon a similar playfulness. Glass fruit jewellery pieces further reference the interest in the alluring mundane – in particular, a trip to the grocery store. Domed resin earrings have also been styled back-to-front in a subversive twist.  

The Fleming minaudière bag – from SS24 – has made a poignant return in soft acetate which has been carefully moulded to rest perfectly on the hip. Similarly, the Lee Radziwill collection has been expanded with a shopper tote and messenger in a range of hues and finishes.

Favouring the everyday sublime in lieu of overt displays of opulence, Tory Burch’s AW24 collection was a perfect way to mark the brand’s 20th anniversary.

by Sophie Richardson

GLASS HK WELCOMES YOU

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