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TITLED Mycelia, Holzweiler presented its autumn-winter 2024 collection at the beautiful Tate Britain during London Fashion Week.

Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the brand’s creative director, Maria Skappel Holzweiler, designed the collection as an ode to the luscious ecosystems of Norway – a country of great significance to the label.

Exploring how mycelium connects, secures and nurtures various habitats, the runway show exhibited a series of looks reminiscent of bubbly, voluminous mushroom caps.

Having been fascinated by mushrooms since a young age, Holzweiler would frequently forage for the fungi with her family – a tradition she continues with her own children.

For women, upside-down silhouettes, where the volume occurs on the top half, recall the various forms and shapes of mushrooms. Chiffon turns and twists around the body, forming delicate layers over shirts or ribbed knitwear. Meanwhile, crystals have been used sparingly to mirror dewdrops after a seasonal rain shower.

Similarly, puffer jackets have been subverted and exaggerated to echo more unexpected fungi types. Holzweiler’s signature Steilia and Narvik down jackets have been particularly reinterpreted for the new season, following the organic inspiration of the other ensembles.

Puff mushrooms have proved to be a great source of inspiration for the AW24 motifs. Hallucinatory and psychedelic in nature, lines and shapes distort in a spore-like meandering pattern.

Another mushroom that receives attention in the collection is Lion’s Mane. Known for its bodily healing and holistic wellness properties, the seasonal offering showcases the season’s cosiest and comforting garments for the ultimate act of self-care.

As a result, Lion’s Mane – renowned for its shaggy, cascading surface – is alluded to through leaner silhouettes and trails of undone tassels.

For menswear, the symbolic figure of the forager is summoned. A timeless Norwegian archetype, the forager and their uniform comprises earthy, tonal layers constructed from various textural fabrications. Fluffy bouclé, worn-in canvas and patinated leather all combine to bring the prototypical identity to life. Those with a keen eye may also notice the brand’s Tine cardigan, now decorated with an array of patch pockets, make an appearance on the runway.

Harkening back to its roots, the brand’s accessories concentrate mostly on scarves. The brand’s first collection was a series of hand-knitted scarves sold by the metre, now, they have matured into shorter, slimmer counterparts.

Celebrating its heritage and mycelium’s microcosm, Holzweiler’s AW24 collection demonstrates the brand’s ability to adapt and mature as time continues to pass.

by Sophie Richardson

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