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LOOKING to the infamous story of Ulysses for inspiration, Marco De Vincenzo – Etro’s creative director – has imbued the brand’s latest collection with countless historical references.

Reawakening the turmoil and travels endured through Homer’s Odyssey, the latest collection alludes to Ulysses’ resolve and character.

Embarking on a Homeric journey, Etro stays true to its roots and design approach. Founded by Gerolamo Etro in 1968, the brand’s collections have often explored other literary works. From poetry recitals for SS23 to today’s Greek mythology, Etro continues to call upon iconic images and narratives to convey its presentations.

Emphasising Greek mythology and ancient theatres, the collection carefully references the use of masks. Once used to portray hyperbolic characters and emotions, masks were the perfect way to communicate one’s comportment through design.

Marco De Vincenzo has now woven miniaturised versions of the stage attire into the seasonal offering. Appearing in new forms such as necklaces, earrings and bracelets, the masks have been elevated to a precious level of design.

As models strolled down the runway accompanied by a backing track by Miglio – a postmodern singer-songwriter, the AW24’s motifs became increasingly apparent. The song – titled Techno Pastoral – taps into the poetic nature of the presentation, furthering the onlooker’s sense of immersion.

Mirroring the turbulent nature of Ulysses’ tale, the collection is full of movement and flexibility. Hair has been styled to look ruffled and agitated, whereas skirts envelop and decorate the body the same way a scarf would. Coats and jackets protect against the forces and safeguard the fragile, delicate underlying garments.

Prints also play a pivotal part in the latest show. With foils layered on felt, stencils on leather and large-knit paisley, the garments are decorative and elaborate. However, Etro has also partnered with Wolford to make form-fitting, jacquard-embellished body stockings.

Combining Etro’’s iconographic interpretations with the Austrian brand’s expertise, the collaboration has conceived a range of bodysuits, jumpsuits, dresses, tops, culottes and tights for the new season. The collection will be available in Etro and Wolford boutiques, online and in selected retailers worldwide starting September.

Crafting clothes in homage to a timeless story, the AW24 collection promises to offer longevity and durability in our contemporary landscape.

by Sophie Richardson

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