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EXPLORING motifs and themes from the 1920s, Maximilian Davis turned back time for Ferragamo’s autumn-winter 2024 offering. Having looked to the Arte Povera movement for spring-summer 2024 inspiration, the creative director has now taken an entirely different approach for the new collection.

In a celebration of liberation and emancipation, Ferragamo’s latest ensemble – titled Spirit – explores the carpe-diem lifestyle of the Jazz Age. “The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom. And that expression of freedom is something which resonates with me, with my heritage, and with Ferragamo,” explains Davis.

Exhibiting hyper-feminine silhouettes alongside structural, geometric counterparts, the collection looks at quintessential 1920s attire. Delicate organdie dresses, feathered finishes and sequinned embroideries all call upon the opulence and glamour of the infamous era.

Meanwhile, paying homage to women such as Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo, Davis has also utilised masculine proportions. As a result, many pieces feature broad shoulders, heavy wool and soft leather.

During a time of prohibition, many during the Roaring Twenties also looked to speakeasies for a sense of community and protection. Tapping into this security, Davis has also explored utilitarian cuts for the season.

Speaking on the theme of protection, Davis said: “In the twenties, as a response to the world that surrounded them, people created their own spaces through speakeasies. They were hiding what they were wearing until they were safe.”

From fishermen-inspired garments to enveloping volumes, the theme becomes immediately apparent. For example, blanket capes – a staple from the Ferragamo archive – have been employed to accentuate the collection’s underlying concept.

For footwear, the designer has kept it simple. “I always strip things back. I like to take a rich part of history and then restrict it to make it cleaner, more modern,” adds Davis.

Graceful satin pumps, stiletto heels and strappy sandals have all been pulled from the archive and reinterpreted for AW24. Traditional brogues and monk-strap buckles into cigarette-heel mules also showcase the designer’s interest in androgyny and comfort.

Finally, the accessories capture the collection’s effervescence without trepidation. Ferragamo’s favourite Hug bag has been adapted for the latest presentation, now feathered, grained and rendered in the new monogram. Additionally, 950 laminated leather sequins have been hand-applied for a mermaid scale effect.

Exhibiting his ability to transport onlookers to historical times, Davis continues to bemuse with his elegant style whilst helming Ferragamo.

by Sophie Richardson

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