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FOR DIOR’s autumn-winter 2024, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into the transitional period of the late 60s that inspired the House to launch Miss Dior.

The line that debuted in 1967 introduced the idea of ready-to-wear collections that would be found around the world rather than just in the streets of Paris and other European countries.

This season she wanted to bring the youthful, dynamic energy that was entrusted in Philippe Guibourgé to create this new uniform, into today’s Dior.

Wearability is key and this version of Miss Dior would need to cater to the landscape of the modern woman. Despite needing to look forward to the next season, the creative director leaned on Marc Bohan’s muse, Gabriella Crespi.

Adored by her predecessor for her cosmopolitan way of creating through design, Maria Grazia Chiuri saw her as a pioneer for paving the way of women being known for their careers rather than their appearances.

AW24 is a beautiful accumulation of elements taken from the Miss Dior boutique in Paris, echoing the shapes and materials that united the women of the 60s, whilst showcasing her own design language by centring looks arounds scarves. Seeing the versatility of the accessory as it carries itself from private to public life, the garment is used to protect, envelope and embellish the looks.

Always hyper aware of silhouette, Chiuri has truly grasped her understanding of the Dior client through her variations of enhancing forms without needing to add restrictions. But with that said, this collection injects a new sense of freedom through its shorter hems, skirts cut above the knee, long boots and shift dresses. Though she doesn’t fail to bring her hero pieces and palette to the forefront of AW24.

Pops of colour bring a bold playfulness to the winter with orange, fluorescent pinks and neon greens finding centre stage on Peter Philips’ make-up look for the models.

The Dior girl has certainly grown up since the Miss Dior days, but there is always a sense of that her young spirit is still in there. Though it may be more obvious this season with the bright make-up and graffiti-like logos, she maintains the feeling that you can’t slow her down.

by Imogen Clark


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